A handful of twistable Wire Caps (for connecting your high-level leads to your amp's high-level input leads).Quick Splice connectors - can get them locally or at Amazon JL Audio ACP108LG-W3v3 and install materials You can slide items underneath the seat when it's down, of course, but it won't fold completely upright.īecause of this, I would avoid the JL Audio ACP108LG-W3v3 (despite it sounding absolutely marvelous), and instead opt for a Rockford Fosgate PS-8 or Kicker Hideaway, both of which are slim enough to be mounted behind the rear seat and still allow for fold-up access to the floor. So, while my sub fits snugly behind that rear seat and the rear seat latches properly, I cannot access my floor storage on that side. I measured ahead of time and knew that it would barely fit, but I didn't account for the change in space behind the rear driver-side passenger seat when you fold it straight up in order to access the flat floor for storage. I installed a JL Audio ACP108LG-W3v3 (8" sub, amp, and box all-in-one), which I ordered from Crutchfield for $429. ![]() This setup should work for anyone, regardless of what sub/amp you choose.I wanted to keep the factory head unit so that all of my Sync and climate controls remain in tact.This was on a 2015 F-150 SuperCrew Lariat with MyFord Touch.So I spent a lot of hours in the garage today and figured I'd put down on paper what I learned to make it easier on those wanting to do DIY subwoofer installs in their 2015 F-150. I've been hunting for a long while for this guide, but it didn't exist.
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